| Bromania Grace Goode OAM Bromeliad
Garden & Home Nursery
Extract from 'BROMLINK' Journal Dated March - May 2004
CRYPTANTHUS EXPERIENCE Cryptanthus are endemic mostly to Brazil where it is summer all the year round', so their first requirement is warmth. They are terrestrials and are rarely found as epiphytes. they will grow well in shade houses, if the humidity is well maintained, perhaps by automated mist or sprinkler system. The most helpful guide to good growing is information about the habitat from which the species came and try to simulate the same conditions. They are sometimes found in full sun, but mainly prefer the filtered light or shade in coastal regions and forests of East Brazil. The temperature there ranges from 20 degrees to 28 degrees celsius. They will grow in most types of soil, but in culture, African violet mixture is recognised as most suitable. There are many mixtures used for Cryptanthus, but my preference is for mainly peat moss with added charcoal and coarse river sand. They will grow in just peat moss but need foliar feeding and granular feeding at the base oftheplant. The best medium forgetting roots on offsets is pure peat moss. It is very difficult to find squat pots suitable for growing Cryptanthus. Preferably they should be no more than 8cm deep and 10 to 15 cnis in diameter. The nearest to this I have found are the round squat tubs used by the margarine manufacturers. Some African violet growers obtain pots ideal for growing Cryptanthus, but I do not know the source. Growers of our 'Earth Stars' are not many so the plastic pot manufacturers see no necessity to make these pots for a small clientele. The smaller Cryptanthus, such as that little charmer, 'Ruby', 'B ivittatus', 'Cafe Au Lait', 'Coffee Royal', 'Acaulis' and others do well in large saucers which are used under big pots, about 30 cins or more in diameter and 5 cins to 7.5 cnis deep. I have used the large terracotta saucers with some success, (after having them suitably modified for drainage holes) but they are inclined to dry out too quickly. They are most suitable for growers with automated sprinkler systems. Cryptanthus root systems usually extend out to the extent of the leaves. The roots grow laterally, that is why I like a wide pot. I have not seen a well grown Cryptanthus without a good root system. 1 have seen average crypts without roots, only because the plant was kept damp and foliar fed. I guess the plants felt no need for a large root growth when the feeding was from above and absorbed by the leaves. Initially I tried to grow my Cryptanthus in the garden. I cleared an area under a calliandra tree, sheltered from the westerly winds and getting filtered morning sun. I was at a loss to understand why they looked miserable. An experienced grower said "Pull them up and you will soon find out". I did so and was appalled to find their roots covered in mealy bug. Some had no roots at all. If Cryptanthus are too dry, mealy bugs thrive. I dipped thern all to remove the bugs, then I placed corrugated fibrolite roofing on the ground and placed the potted plants on top. Reasoning that the mealy bugs came out of the soil, I sealed off the ends of the fibrolite, hoping to keep the channels filled with water. This was a failure too, as the fibrolite soaked up the water in no time. At that time we had no reticulated water system and all the plants had to be hand watered. With only tanks, one had to be careful with the water. The mealy bug infested the pots again, much to my disgust. New horizons opened up when reticulated water was laid on. On my north facing verandah, I nailed 6 inch wide boards to the railings. On this I placed foam troughs, which are sold by nurseries and big stores. The longer troughs are the best, as they have a reinforcing bridge across the centre. I used old fence palings, cracked and worn from years of service as a fence. Imadeaplatform from a paling, cut to fit down in the trough, with two small pieces nailed on each end, the bridge in the middle being the middle foot of the platform. I poured water to the level of the platform, which readily absorbed the water. The crypts in their pots were placed on the platform and they thrived. The trough will take from 5 to 6 plants depending on their size. The veranda was enclosed with 50% shade cloth. The sun streamed in at winter time, and in summer, when they did not need the hot sun, the overhang from the roof, sheltered them. I found it an ideal way to grow my crypts. With over 100 pots to water on the verandah, the task of carrying buckets of water up 12 steps became a chore. I could not use the hose as the verandah boards would deteriorate and as it was, and careful as I could be, they were already showing signs of rot. I commend this method to growers who can use the hose to fill their containers and keep the water to the level of the platforms. This method will do equally well in shade and in glass houses. I tried the wick system used by African Violet growers. At last, I thought I had found the ultimate. I used clear plastic tubs as the water containers, so 1 could watch the water level. The potted crypts were placed on top of the water container with the wick, supplying the water. It should have been successful, but life was not meant to be easy, the algae grew in the water pots, a slimy mess. I was forever cleaning the slime off the tubs, even using steel wool, as the algae just loved living in that water. I tried fungicide, but even that could not stop the algae. I do not know what the African Violet growers do, to overcome this problem. So, another great scheme went the way of all schemes. I saw a nursery in Florida which grew their plants on a slightly slanted bed of underfelt. Old carpet would do as well. This was watered from the top, the water permeating to the bottom. This method looked great to me, but I did not stay around long enough to find out the drawbacks, ifany. A most commendable method is Bob Whitinan's treatment of Cryptanthus. He has a very large shade house, reinforced in winter with a covering of thick plastic or bubble plastic. It can get fairly cold in Texas, USA and Bob told me in the years he has been growing Bromellads, they have had a few sprinkles of snow. Large boulders are laid on the ground, marking the pathways. The beds are built up to the height of the boulders, with rich dark soil. The Cryptanthus were in their element, growing with their earth mother. They were a delight to behold, Australian hybrids in one bed, species in another and hybrids by USA in another bed, not hard to find when a customer wanted a particular plant. So if Bob Whitman can grow his Cryptanthus so well in Texas, we should be able to grow them better in warm and sunny Queensland. One of the best methods I have seen was used by Robert Reilly of Buderim, some years ago now. In his large shade house, the centre was taken up by a large table waist high and from memory about 12 ft long and 6ft wide. On this was laid flat sheets of galvanised iron, with a lip of about 2 inches or so all around. This bed was filled with coarse river sand, always kept damp and the Cryptanthus loved it. If I were young again and had the wherewithal, this is the way I'd go. Crypts on the average grow about 10 inches across, but who of us (the oldies I suppose), can remember that C. 'Goldie Langdon' of some years ago, when John Catlan took Champion of the Bromeliaceae at the Mt Cootha Show. It must have been 3 feet across. I asked John how he grew it to such dimensions and perfection. He said he could only attribute it to an employee, who used to throw the residue of fungicide over the end of the bench, when she had finished spraying other plants. Maybe Crypts like fungicide occasionally. I did not have a camera at the time, but if any member has a photo of that phenomenal cryptanthus, I'd be most grateful of a copy. Under artificial light, crypts respond very well. Because of the cold, some of our USA members have to grow their plants in cellars, lit and warmed by fluorescent tubes. They grow them as well as those who grow them under natural conditions. From these methods which I have recounted, I hope there is one which appeals to you. I hope this article will induce more members to take up the challenge and grow these beautiful plants. I look forward to seeing a whole array of captivating cryptanthus, gracing the tables at the next Mt Cootha Combined Show. The Earth Stars are not the lowly relations
of the more flamboyant genera of the Bromeliaceae. They are given to us
to gladden our days, as their counterparts, the heavenly stars, do at
night. Have a look in our library for more information on Cryptanthus - they really are a very attractive genus. With the variety of colours, bandings, sizes and growth habit, you’re sure to find one which appeals to you. Check out these websites for beautiful
illustrations of cryptanthus and other beautiful bromeliads and succulents.
Extract from 'Growing
Bromeliads' The Extract following is a contributed article, supplied for publishing in this book by Grace Goode Chapter 11 Neoregelia The ‘Blushing Hearts’ of the Bromeliad family well deserve their popularity. Easy to grow and adapting to many conditions, they are most rewarding as house plants, garden plants and landscape subjects. Most neoregelias are medium-sized and grow in a compact, flat rosette. In their natural habitat they vary in size from 4 to 5 cm across to a diameter which can approach1.5 metres. The flowers are in a compound head nestled in the heart of the plant; these are usually blue or white and die quickly, but the flush of colour in the often-brilliant foliage of this genus remains for many months. A distinguishing feature of many species is a heart that turns red, vivid rose, or purple when blooming time approaches. The leaves may be plain green, silvery green, maroon, banded, spotted, striped, or marbled and may be soft or firm in texture. They are found in Amazonia and in eastern Colombia and Peru. Epiphytic bromeliads differ somewhat from other plants in that their root systems function primarily to anchor them to rocks, tree trunks or branches of trees. In their natural state their roots are exposed to the air, so they must have good drainage when grown terrestrially in cultivation. Neoregelias grown in the ground rather than in containers develop stronger root systems than those that are confined in pots. This is particularly manifested when rich decaying matter is available. They are not deep rooted and when growing naturally, send out their roots laterally in search of food. They love to get their roots under rocks, where it is always moist and cool. Neoregeliads obtain most of their nutrition from the soup in their cups. Bird droppings, leaves and small frogs all contribute to feed the plant. Their cups should never be allowed to dry out, although in extreme cold weather, they should be emptied out so the water does not freeze. Only in the terrestrial bromeliads which have no tanks or cups to hold water are strong root systems developed for their sustenance.
No offset or ‘pup’ should be potted up until it has roots. When taken from the parent plant it should be put into a box in damp peat moss or sand. This way it will grow roots faster than being in a pot on its own, where it can easily miss out on a watering schedule. When it is evident from examination that roots are present, the plant can be transferred to an appropriately sized pot or container. It can then be re-potted at intervals to larger containers as the plant develops in size. The leaf bases should not be set any deeper than the top of the medium. Soil contact with leaf axils can encourage rot. If the plant does not have a good root system, a few stones around the base will hold it upright until it has grown enough roots to stabilize itself. Remove the stones before offsets appear, otherwise growth will be inhibited. The pot size depends on the plant. If underpotted it can become top heavy and fall over. You are confronted with a never-ending job of putting the plant back in place and topping up the soil again. Apart from this , a big plant inn a small pot looks absurd, although compact plants are often grown to perfection in small containers. When the roots start to emerge from the drainage holes in the pot, it is a sure sign that the plant is overdue for a larger container. Without waiting for this to happen, it is easy to pull the plant out to see if its roots have taken up all the medium, but only after the plant has been in the pot for at least six months. Some growers like to pot a plant in a big container from the beginning. They consider it saves work, as the plant stays in the same pot for its whole life. It is considered, however, that if this practice is followed, watering would have to be watched, as the medium could sour without the root growth to utilize the extra soil. When neoregelias are used as landscaping subjects, it is much easiler to change their positions if they are in containers. There are many reasons why a plant might have to be shifted. The site might be unsuitable and the plant does not do well, grasshoppers could maul it, or leaf burn from the cold or the heat may occur. Some grow too large and hide the other neoregelias. It takes only a few unsightly plants to mar the effect of a landscape garden. Pot culture also helps to keep the leaves off the ground. Where plant leaves lie parallel with the ground and rest on it, they are susceptible to rot and die. The grower is constantly removing unsightly leaves. Also, ground-hugging leaves harbour pests and it is difficult to spray under them. The average-sized neoregelias with the rosette form are the best too use in a garden display. They should be grown at ground level, so that their blooming hhearts can be seen. The back of the bed should be raised so that the back plantings are not hidden by the front plants and their pots tilted to the viewer so that their vivid beauty can be appreciated. Miniature neoregelias should be grown hard. Shallow containers and bright light will maintain their colour. Hanging baskets bring out the best in the miniatures. When grown in too much soil they lose their appeal; the leaves grow long and lush with no colour. The difference between a hard grown miniature and a lush grown plant of the same species or clone is so great that it is hard to believe they came from the same clump. Water sparingly, give them bright light and not too deep a growing medium.
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